My Father,
the Meat Chopper (“Mein
Vater, der Fleischhacker”)
By Andreas Franz
(Translation of “Mein Vater, der Fleischhacker”
January, 2009, Trentoner
Donauschwaben Nachrichten.)
Translator by Hans Martini
In the spring of 1947 my parents and
I arrived in Graz, the second
biggest city in Austria. Our long
ordeal in Yugoslavia was finally
over. For sixteen long months we
were held captive in Jarek, a town
converted into a concentration camp
(for “guilty” ethnic Germans). My
mother, grandmother and I were among
the first incarcerated there along
with many of our neighbors from my
hometown of Palanka in Yugoslavia.
Just nine years of age, I was
fortunate to have survived both
typhus and near starvation. My two
grandmothers were not so lucky and
lay buried there.
My father, the
“Franz-Butcher” was drafted into the
service of the German military in
1944, was captured and imprisoned by
the Russians, and then was promptly
returned to Yugoslavia to be held at
a camp in Sombor as a prisoner of
war. Somehow he escaped, found my
mother and me, and lead us to
certain freedom across the border in
Hungary. Fate then intervened and
we were captured along the way. They returned us to Sombor where we
stayed for many months. We dared
fate again but this time escaped
from Sombor and made it to Graz and
the freedom that awaited us.
Once there, we located my brother
“Buwi” (pronounced boo-vee) who was
a student at the school for the
hearing impaired. I was now set to
return to school myself and had to
take a placement test. There were
many questions, among them: “What
is your dad’s occupation?” I
answered, “He’s a meat chopper” The
teacher looked a bit quizzical
before saying, “You mean your dad is
a butcher.” I insisted in my
Palankaer dialect “No, he’s a
meat chopper!”
In my mind he was always, “Franz
Sepp, der Flieschhacker”, located
down by the Serbian border next to
Gajdober Strasse (Guy-dober
Street). In the Donauschwaben town
of Palanka, my dad, mom, brother,
grandmother, and I all lived in a
normal house with a building next to
it that contained a butcher’s work
bench, a meat cooler and one room.
The buildings were connected with a
swinging gate that even had a small
mini-door for the geese.
My father was a short, stocky man
who was very energetic and agile
despite weighing some 220 lbs. He
was a well-regarded butcher who
produced quality products, some
excellent sausage varieties among
them. What follows is a brief look
at how my father operated his
business...
There was always a competitive
spirit among the 13 butchers in
Palanka. Everyone was keen to be
the first to market their meat
products. Only smaller animals –
pigs, sheep, calves, & goats – could
be processed in butcher shops like
my dad’s. Larger animals – steers,
cows and oxen – had to be
slaughtered in large processing
facilities at the nearby “little
Danube” river.
Butchering pigs was almost a daily
ritual for my father. I had to
help but wasn’t really that reliable
an assistant, I’m afraid. It
started with trying to get a very
reluctant pig out of its stall.
Fortunately we had a big dog named
“Nero” who was good at getting the
pigs to come out. At that point, my
dad grabbed a front and back leg and
with one mighty “heave-ho” threw the
pig on its side. In one hand he
held a pointy knife and with the
other the pig’s front leg. He would
then look over to me. I was
holding the bucket into which the
fresh blood was supposed to flow.
This was the all-important
ingredient for bloodwurst and there
was great pressure on me not to mess
up. So, a thrust here, a cut there,
and suddenly I was kneeling next to
the pig praying that I capture the
blood just like I was supposed to.
Unfortunately my prayers weren’t
always answered.
The pig would sometimes kick outward
with its other front leg, causing my
bucket to go flying. I would chase
after it as quickly as a six year
old could but was often too late to
catch the valuable fluid. My dad
would choose to use Hungarian or
Serbian words in those instances,
the meaning of which I did not
comprehend at the time.
After bleeding the pig, it was
placed in a large wooden trough on
top of two chains. Hot water was
then poured over the animal. My dad
and his apprentice would turn the
pig carefully so that the hot water
released all of the hair without
damaging the skin. It was then time
to shave the pig so that not a
single hair remained. At this
point the animal would be strung up
and the actual cutting process
began. With skillful knife strokes
the pig was cut up in the most
efficient manner. All of the parts
and pieces were then dealt with in
an orderly fashion. Brain, kidneys
and liver went to an ice box so the
veterinarian could check for
diseases. The best cuts were
offered immediately for sale to our
customers. Lesser cuts and parts
were saved for Bratwurst,
Bloodwurst, Liverwurst and of course
a “head cheese” or two. I can’t
forget to mention bacon and lard, as
they were very important elements of
our people’s diet too.
Into a big kettle went the meat
parts that would end up in some of
the sausages. I would help turn the
meat grinder that ground up the meat
for the Bratwurst. To the ground
meat we would add salt, pepper,
paprika, hot paprika, and garlic.
When everything was ready, my dad
would say “taste it!” I would
immediately dip my finger in for a
quick taste. I had to tell him what
I thought but he wasn’t happy if I
suggested it could use a bit more
salt or paprika, for instance. “Run
along!” he would say, and off I
went.
Bratwurst and some of the others
would be filled using a sausage
press. Other specialties required
filling by hand. Some of the bacon
would be cut up into little pieces.
They would eventually become mouth
sized “Krameln,” a tasty treat
everyone enjoyed.
The ingredients for liverwurst and
bloodwurst as well as the head
cheese (head cheese is the name
sometimes used for Schwartelmagen
although literally it’s “skin –
stomach” in German. ed. note)
cooked slowly in the big kettle. I
made sure that the fire didn’t get
too big and that the meat didn’t
burn. The cooking process produced
great tasting “kettle soup” as well
as “kettle meat” that we ate with
horseradish. I can almost taste
this delicious food in my mouth when
I think back to those days.
The sausages would hang from a stand
in the yard to cool off. Our dog
Nero guarded them against would be
predators. These included the
neighborhood cats that were
attracted by the strong smells.
These felines had no greater enemy
than our dog! Did I forget to
mention that all this work started
at 3 to 3:30 AM so that we could
open for business at 7:00 AM? This
was just a small part of our life in
Palanka.
We did have an ice cellar in our
yard, insulated with straw. In the
winter the ice would be cut, carted
to the cellar, and made ready for
the upcoming summer. My father
purchased animals from local farmers
and land owners, as well as from
markets or often from the Serbian,
Croatian and Bosnian shepherds who
would bring them right to us. He
was a businessman who had to deal
successfully with folks when buying
the animals and then selling the
products that he made from them.
This would involve friendly
interaction often accompanied by a
drink or two. Many times business
was transacted in the local tavern.
When things went well he did not
hesitate to spend some money. In
fact, every so often he would hire
the tavern band to march over to our
house some two blocks away!
There was almost always something
going on at our place and it was
often full of people. This
included gypsies who seemed to enjoy
stopping by. They did take the
parts of the animals we did not
use. In fact, they could come into
the yard, but our dog Nero would not
let them out!
My father enjoyed music. For many
musicians, especially the gypsy
bands, ours was the first and last
stop at Christmas, New Years,
Easter, and all the other festive
occasions. There were also choirs
he would enjoy, including Serbian,
Jewish and Catholic. I would
accompany him of course. To this
day, I find some of the music,
especially the gypsy music, so
evocative of that wonderful time
that it brings tears to my eyes.
At around eight years of age my dad
asked me if I wished to become a
“meat chopper” like him. No, I
replied nervously. In the times
since then, whenever I have
successfully hunted deer, I always
pray that my dad isn’t looking down
at me while I’m butchering the
animals. He no doubt would have
something to say about it, although
most certainly in Serbian or
Hungarian! My father was a master
at his craft and I would never
presume to be able to do it as well
as he did.
[Published
at DVHH.org 15 Sep
2009 by Jody McKim Pharr]
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