Das Schlachtfest
"The Slaughter Festival" a tradition that
still lingers among the Donauschwaben today.
The pig was a main
source of food and a source for many other
products, there was absolutely no
waste, everything from the first drops of
blood to the last hair on the tail and in
between was used. The list of the
products made from the pig and its uses is a
long one, starting with the much loved "Schweinebraten"
(pork roast), bacon, ham, the famous
Donauschwaben "Bratwurst," to the making of
soap and brushes. It provided food not
only during the winter months and well into
the spring and early summer, especially for
our farmers who needed all the protein to do
the cultivating and harvesting.
The picture are from
various "Heimat" books showing everything from raising the pigs to the time of
its slaughter. The name "Schwein" (pig) is
misused by many cultures as something dirty.
Of all the many pigs raised by the
Donauschwaben, the "Mangalica" and the
"Berkshire" bred may have been the most
popular. The pigs were raised not only by
farmers and individual households but in
several towns they were raised for export
although not for the European market but for
nearby larger cities. Gakowa is a town that
comes to mind first, since one on the
notorious death camps was established there.
The pigs were fattened with skim milk, bran
and corn and usually had the run of the back
court. Between 4 to 6 weeks prior to
the slaughter they were almost entirely
fattened by corn and kept at rest to produce
the best bacon sides and the largest
quantities of lard.
The slaughter was almost always a ceremonial
event or a festival; the
"Schlachtfest," from which we can see the
importance of pig for the Donauschwaben.
It was certainly a great event for me when
my father called for my uncle, Franz Greif,
(a butcher by profession) to come to our
house and do the slaughtering of our pigs and when my uncle told me that I
could help by holding the pig’s tail, I felt
extremely important. As soon as the
knife was set and the blood flowing it was
caught in a large container the "Lavour,"
some vinegar and water had to be added and
one had to constantly stir the blood so that
it would not solidify and could be used as
the bases for the "Blutwurst" (blood
sausage).
In sequence the pig was then placed in a
large "Trog" (trough), hot water poured over
it and the bristles removed with a scraper
which were often saved for the brush makers,
who turned them later into brushes.
Afterwards the pig was strung up and opened
up, the organs removed which were then
cooked along with other parts of the pig
such as the neck, head and feet to make the
so called "Kesselfleisch" and these parts
became part of the fillings along with pork
skin for the "Schwartenmagen" we refer to as
headcheese, for which the bladder became the
container.
Little by little the pig was dissected;
bacon sides and ham, as well as, prime cuts
of meet such as pork loin were separated and
placed in the "Lauge" brine. The brine
was prepared with Salt, garlic peppercorns,
bay leaves and elder berries for the bacon
and ham, while the pork loins were placed
into a brine prepared with salt, sugar, bay
leaves, jumper seeds, peppercorn and caraway
seed all in the right proportions to the
weight of the meat. After the curing
was done the meat headed for the smoke house
which usually was a part of the
built-in-oven for cold smoking, which
usually was preferred over the hot smoking,
although it usually took 21 days instead of
ten.
Prime cuts such as butts or shoulders as
well as the smaller cuts left were ground up
in the "Wolf" the meat grinder. Actually one
aimed for mix with a ratio of 85% lean and
15% fat. The usual secret "Bratwurst"
mix was prepared with paprika, pickling
salt, white pepper (some used black pepper)
hot paprika and garlic to taste, which
produced the famous Donauschwaben
“Bratwurst.”
The "Bratwurst" has a close relation with
the Hungarian paprika sausage, which also
was loved by the Donauschwaben. The
"Bratwurst" found its way to the smoke house
where it often stayed there stored during
the winter. The "Depreziener," the
"Salami," the “Leberwurst” and other
assorted sausages where usually made by the
butchers.
While the
men worked filling the intestines with the "Wurstspritze"
(sausage extruder), the women cooked the fat
rich parts of the skin to create lard for
the entire year. The lard then was
placed in the "Stenner" a wooden "barrel"
open on the top from which the lard was
taken all year long. One of my favorite
things to do when my grandmother was baking
bread was "Flammkuchen." She allowed
me to have a piece of dough so I can make
this pita-type bread by flattening it and
then placing it in the oven until it was
crisp and crunchy. After removing it
from the oven I spread lard on it and on top
of that a little salt and a heap of Paprika,
while it was still hot. What a delight
it was for us children to eat this
“Flammkuchen” and have had the satisfaction
besides, to have made something for
ourselves to eat.
The by-product of rendering the bacon were
the "Grammeln" or "Griewe" (cracklings).
The cracklings were often used to make "Griewepogatschl"
or "Grammelpogatschl" (crackling biscuits)
The cracklings were also used as a base for
making soap. Then there was the popular
"Sulz" (meat aspic), one of my
favorites, prepared with left-over pieces
of meat, such as pig's feet, from the "Kesselfleisch,"
The meat was covered
with the broth
and set out in the cold to solidify.
When
it was ready, we poured some vinegar over it
and ate it with a big piece
of fresh bread. No Schlachtfest, or
slaughtering feast, was without the
ever-popular "Gulaschsuppe". It was the
ultimate satisfying reward for everybody’s
hard work at the end of the day.
For the farmer in the field during his long
days, bacon with paprika, sometimes hot and
tomatoes were the main meal to take to the
field for his lunch. Also eaten with canned
pickled peppers and cucumbers accompanied by
a "Plutzer" (Stone Jug) of water (which he
usually buried in the ground when arriving
on the field to keep it cool) was his only
source of protein during his hard working
day. The working foot wears of the farmer he
wore to work the "Patschker" was soled with
the durable leather made from pig skin.
The tradition of the “Bratwurst” making is
still alive among the Donauschwaben in North
America and other parts of the world. Of
course there is no longer slaughtering of a
whole pig, but local Donauschwaben Club
members purchase choice pork butts and
during winter months make sausage for
themselves or to sell to their club members
as fund raiser, but never for profit. These
events have acquired their own ritual today
as a "Schlachtfest." After the work is done
everybody sits together to enjoy a
“Gulaschsuppe” and a freshly made piece of
pan fried "Bratwurst." In the Cleveland area
the sausage is made by the "Altheimatliche
Kegelverein" bowlers, a wonderful group of
people fostering true traditions from our
"Heimat." The other tradition left is
the "Spahnferkel" the piglet on the spick,
which is often made on organizational
picnics or at one of their many of their
festivals.